St. Moritz invented the concept of the winter holiday. Johannes Badrutt, the owner of the Kulm Hotel, made a wager with four English guests in 1864: return in winter, and if they didn’t enjoy it, he’d pay their travel costs. They stayed until spring. The Alpine winter tourism industry began on that bet, and the town has never stopped being the pinnacle of the form.
Today, St. Moritz operates at an altitude of 1,822 meters and an economic altitude considerably higher. This is where private jets land at the Engadin Airport for ski weekends. The street-facing boutiques of Valentino, Bulgari, and Harry Winston line Via Serlas. The Badrutt’s Palace Hotel — unchanged in essence since 1896 — still hosts the world’s wealthiest clientele for the winter season. The Cresta Run (the original toboggan course, private and exclusive) has operated since 1884.
But beyond the jewelry stores and private members’ clubs, the Engadin Valley offers some of the most spectacular Alpine scenery in Switzerland — and much of it is freely accessible. The summer hiking trails through the valley are magnificent. The Bernina Pass at 2,328 meters (accessible by the Bernina Express train) is one of Europe’s highest railway crossings and a genuinely extraordinary experience. And the frozen lake in February, with horses racing across it against a mountain backdrop, is available to anyone who walks to the shoreline.
Getting Around St. Moritz
The compact village center is walkable. Ski buses connect the village to the Corviglia and Diavolezza lift systems. The Rhaetian Railway runs frequent trains between St. Moritz and Pontresina (5 minutes), Samedan, and Zuoz — all significantly cheaper places to stay while using St. Moritz as a day destination.
The Swiss Travel Pass covers regional trains throughout the Engadin Valley.
Things to Do in St. Moritz
Glacier Express to Zermatt — The world’s most famous scenic train journey begins (or ends) here, traversing the Swiss Alps over 8 hours through the Oberalp Pass (2,033 meters), past the Rhone Valley, through the Valais to Zermatt. The panoramic windows, included meal service, and extraordinary mountain scenery make it one of the world’s great rail experiences. Swiss Travel Pass covers the fare; reservation required.
Bernina Express toward Lugano — The UNESCO World Heritage Bernina line departs St. Moritz for Tirano (Italy) via the Bernina Pass (2,253 meters, the highest Alpine rail crossing without a tunnel) in about 2.5 hours. The route includes the famous Brusio spiral viaduct. Swiss Travel Pass covers to the Swiss border; book seat reservations in advance.
Corviglia Ski Area — The main ski mountain above St. Moritz is accessed by funicular from the village. 350 km of pistes across Corviglia, Marguns, and Piz Nair. The Hahnensee run descends from Piz Nair (3,057 meters) to St. Moritz in one long descent. Lift passes from 80 CHF per day.
Diavolezza — The secondary ski area with access to the Morteratsch Glacier. Famous for the Diavolezza downhill to Morteratsch with glacier skiing and crossing. Cable car from Bernina Diavolezza station (reachable by Bernina Express train). About 50 CHF return.
Cresta Run — The 1,212-meter ice skeleton run is one of the world’s most exclusive sporting experiences. Male visitors can attempt runs from Junction (one-third of the course) starting at around 60 CHF with equipment hire. The Cresta Run app provides scheduling information. Minimum age 18.
White Turf and Frozen Lake Events — Three Sundays each February, the frozen lake becomes a horse racing venue. White Turf is one of the world’s most unusual sporting events. The surrounding lake shore is publicly accessible; the main grandstand area requires tickets (from 25 CHF).
Engadin Valley Summer Hiking — July and August reveal a completely different St. Moritz. The valley trails are excellent for all abilities. The Maloja Pass walk, the path around all three Engadin lakes, and the Muottas Muragl viewpoint hike offer extraordinary scenery free of winter crowds.
Where to Eat in St. Moritz
Mathis Food Affairs — The legendary mountain restaurant on Corviglia at 2,486 meters has been a St. Moritz institution since the 1950s. Fondue, pasta, and local specialties with ski slope views. Lunch only in ski season; mains 40–70 CHF.
Engiadina (Sils Maria) — Drive or bus 15 minutes from St. Moritz for the valley’s best traditional Engadin food in the village that inspired Nietzsche. Handmade pasta and local specialties from 28–45 CHF.
Laudinella buffet — The Hotel Laudinella’s buffet restaurant is the best value dining in St. Moritz itself. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner from 20–35 CHF.
Coop Pontresina — The nearby village of Pontresina (5 min by train) has a well-stocked Coop for self-catering. Prices are lower than in St. Moritz and the selection is comparable.
Where to Stay in St. Moritz
Badrutt’s Palace Hotel (Luxury — from 1,000 CHF/night) — The original luxury Alpine hotel from 1896. King of St. Moritz. Seasonal opening (winter and summer).
Kulm Hotel (Luxury — from 800 CHF/night) — Where it all began in 1864. Slightly more understated than Badrutt’s but equally historic.
Hotel Laudinella (Mid-Range — from 280 CHF/night) — The best mid-range hotel in St. Moritz with a pool, good restaurant, and convenient ski access.
Youth Hostel Pontresina (Budget — from 50 CHF/night) — 5 minutes by train from St. Moritz in the more affordable village of Pontresina. The best base for budget travelers exploring the Engadin.
Scott’s Pro Tips for St. Moritz
Logistics and Getting There: Train from Zurich HB to St. Moritz via Chur takes approximately 3.5 hours (Swiss Travel Pass valid). The Glacier Express from Zermatt takes approximately 8 hours. EuroAirport Samedan is the local airport — small private jets only; nearest commercial airport is Zurich.
Best Time to Visit: December through March for skiing and the unique frozen lake events. July and August for hiking, lake swimming, and Glacier Express journeys. The shoulder seasons (October–November, April–May) offer significantly lower prices but limited services.
Getting Around: Village is walkable. Ski buses run between hotels and the lift stations. The Rhaetian Railway network covers the entire Engadin Valley — use it for day trips to Pontresina, Samedan, and Maloja.
Money and Budget: St. Moritz is Switzerland’s most expensive destination. Budget 200+ CHF/day for hostel in Pontresina plus self-catering. Mid-range in St. Moritz itself: 450+ CHF/day. The main savings: stay in Pontresina, self-cater, and access St. Moritz as a day visitor.
Safety and Health: Very safe. The ski patrol is excellent. Altitude (1,822 meters) can cause mild altitude adjustment issues for the first day — drink water, take it easy. Ospital Engiadina Bassa, Lüen-Suot 6, Scuol — the nearest hospital (35 minutes away).
Packing Essentials: Full ski kit in winter or rent in resort (expensive but high quality). Summer: quality hiking boots, layers, sun protection. Evening wear: St. Moritz dining is the most formally dressed in Switzerland — smart-casual minimum, black tie occasionally appropriate.
Local Culture and Etiquette: St. Moritz speaks German, Romansh (the ancient Swiss language), and English with equal fluency. The wealth on display is extraordinary — private jets, fur coats, and bodyguards are unremarkable here. The local Engadin culture beneath the luxury layer is genuine and warm; go to Pontresina or Sils Maria for it.